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After a couple of days in London, we arrived in Venice late Friday afternoon after a two-hour flight aboard a BMI regional jet. While short, the flight was a vivid reminder of what a good idea it was to return to North America by cruise ship rather than by aircraft: long line-ups through airport security, unpleasant check-in agents, departure delays, charges for excess baggage, charges for food on board, cramped seating with little leg room, and a new one for us, there was even a charge for tea, coffee and soft drinks. But at least the water was free!

Of course, another reason was the amazingly low, last-minute cruise fare of $999 per person for an inside cabin ($1,080 with all taxes and fees) for an 18-day cruise from Venice to Ft. Lauderdale. To put it more succinctly, that’s a per diem rate of just $60 per person for a travel experience that is head and shoulders above flying (even in first-class) in every way except speed of transit. And since we weren’t in a hurry to get back home, crossing the pond by ocean liner seemed like an elegant alternative.

We had cruised with Princess before, and knew what to expect – a premium cruise line with a great selection of cabins, good food, and a wide variety of entertainment. And while not fans of mega ships, we knew that the 113,000-ton Emerald Princess was heavy enough to handle a trans-Atlantic crossing, and large enough to offer a variety of things to do while at sea.

While we boarded our ship on Friday, it didn’t leave until 1:00 pm the next day so that passengers could enjoy an evening ashore and a daylight transit through Venice into the Adriatic Sea. We had sailed to and from Venice before, but always under the cover of darkness. Today we realized what a beautiful sight we had missed.

As the Emerald Princess slipped its berth and sailed into the Canale della Giudecca, Old Venice appeared on our port side like a beautifully painted canvas of red-tiled rooftops, grand churches, stone clock towers, and elegant palaces. From the top deck of our 20-storey ship, we not only had an unobstructed view of the Venetian waterfront, we towered over its ancient skyline as well.  

The pretty waterfront of the Dorsoduro quarter appeared first, with its charming trattorias, pensiones, boutiques and tiny bridges that criss-cross the canals. Next, we sailed into the Bacino di San Marco with the tiny Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore to starboard and the magnificent Piazza San Marco to our left.

 While it was a bit breezy on the deck of our moving ship, it was warmer on shore (18 C or 68 F) where crowds had already gathered in the Piazza to visit the Doge’s Palace, the Basilica and the bell tower.  Most of the gondola fleet was still tied in the Piazza’s basin, but a handful of boats were braving the choppy seas to satisfy clients who were likely tourists in search of that last, romantic canal ride before leaving Venice.

As we watched the shoreline of Venice retreat, the ship’s waiters came by with glasses of champagne to help us celebrate the magnificent views that a daylight sail-by had afforded us.  

As the “The Serene Republic of Venice” faded into our wake, we raised our glasses in appreciation of what we had seen, and in anticipation of what was yet to come. We still had 17 days, eight ports of call (Naples, Civitavecchia for Rome, Livorno for Florence, Cannes, Barcelona, Cadiz for Seville, Lisbon, and the Azores Islands), and a trans-Atlantic voyage ahead of us. And no doubt, more glorious sights, champagne nights, and memorable moments.    

Tomorrow, a day at sea aboard the Emerald Princess on our way to Naples, Italy.

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