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(This report is a continuation of my post of May 26 entitled British Virgin Islands a Sailor’s Delight). 

The next morning we motored through Little Camanoe Passage on our way to Guana Island where we stopped at Monkey Point for some snorkeling. Then we sailed west for 19 km along the north side of Tortola on our way to Great Harbour on the shores of Jost Van Dyke.

The smallest of the BVI’s four main islands, some believe Jost Van Dyke was named for the 17^th century Dutch pirate Joost Van Dyk who once used its harbours as a hideout. But whatever its provenance, this laid-back island of just a few hundred residents features spectacular beaches, beautiful bays, and some of the most entertaining beach bars in the Caribbean. And for that very reason, we had planned our itinerary so that we would be anchored here on May 6 to celebrate Samantha’s 20^th birthday.

Surrounded by white sandy beaches, lush green hills, and dozens of beautiful yachts, we began our celebrations with drinks in the boat’s cockpit where Sam opened her gifts, including a teal-coloured baseball cap with the inscription “Women who behave rarely make history.” The cocktails, beer and shooters continued until sundown, at which point all of us stumbled into our dinghy for the trip ashore for dinner at Foxy’s Tamarind Bar. All, of course, except Adam (aka Hooligan) who tumbled into the bay after attempting to leap into the dinghy head first.

After dragging Adam from the water, we motored ashore to Foxy’s where we met our good friends (Anthony, Tom, Robert and Chuck) who had shared dinner with us at the Bitter End. They had agreed to join us for Sam’s birthday, which was now beginning to look and sound more like a rowdy island festival than a small gathering of friends.  Oh, and I haven’t even mentioned the song yet.

Sometime between anchoring and dinner, Brian and Adam had created a birthday song for Sam loosely based on a popular Caribbean song called “Hot, Hot, Hot.” And now it seemed we were breaking into song every 5 or 10 minutes, regardless of what was going on around us.  I’d like to say that things calmed down after we finished dinner, but they didn’t. Instead, what followed was more singing, lots of dancing, some falling down, and a dinghy ride back to the boat that resembled a scene from a Marx Brothers’ movie.  

Needless to say, the next morning came far too quickly, especially since it had rained heavily during the night and we had forgotten to close the top hatches in the dining room or bring in various items from the outdoor cockpit including Sam’s camera. So with lots of cleaning ahead of us and threatening skies, we decided to motor over to nearby Little Harbour for a quiet afternoon followed by a delightful dinner of Conch Stew and Lobster at Sydney’s Peace and Love Beach Bar.

By the next morning we were fully recovered and the weather had improved, so we made our way over to Cane Garden Bay on the north shore of Tortola, which is arguably one of the most beautiful bays in the Caribbean. After snorkeling on a large reef at the entrance to the harbour, we sailed west along the coast of Tortola to Soper’s Hole, a large and busy anchorage at the end of the island where we were about to meet a surprise guest.

My wife Gail is not a keen sailor, so she had declined to be part of our crew. However, at the last minute she had agreed to join us for the last few days of our trip– something I had kept from everyone except Sam.  So when we moored our boat in Soper’s Hole and went ashore to have a late lunch at Pussers Landing, the crew were surprised but delighted to see another potential galley wench sipping cocktails at the bar.

That night, we had a great dinner of Chicken Roti, fresh fish, ribs and lots of wine at the Jolly Roger Inn, which sits right on the water’s edge across from beautiful Frenchman’s Cay. Then we dinghied back to our boat where we sat in the cockpit for hours admiring the bright stars, gentle breeze, and swaying masts in the harbour.

While we still had another two days of sailing ahead of us on our way back to Norman Island and eventually on to Road Town to return the boat, we knew Gail had already seen enough to share our view that the British Virgin Islands are a very special place. And hopefully, a place we would all get to enjoy again in the not-too-distant future.

After arriving on the Caribbean island of Tortola, our group of five intrepid sailors made their way to the Fort Burt Hotel on the edge of picturesque Road Town Harbour.

The capital of this tiny chain of islands some 90 miles east of Puerto Rico, Road Town is the main port of entry to the British Virgin Islands. It’s also the largest city on Tortola, an island filled with beautiful bays, palm-fringed beaches and a lush mountain range that reaches its zenith some 1,700 feet above sea level at Mt. Sage.

Luckily, we could see the mountains, the city and the harbour from the dining room of our hotel, which is built atop a hill on the ruins of a 17^th-century Dutch Fort.  It’s also conveniently located near a number of charter boat companies on Tortola, including Caribbean Sailing BVI where we picked up a 43-ft sail boat called Away (which we nicknamed Hooligan’s Island) the next day.

It had rained most of the morning, but as we boarded our boat and headed south towards Norman Island some 11 km across Sir Francis Drake Channel, the bright Caribbean sun began to break through a retreating canopy of cloud in time for our arrival.

Known locally as “Treasure Island” after the booty pirates supposedly buried ashore and the Robert Louis Stevenson novel it inspired, Norman Island sits at the southern end of an archipelago which many believe is one of the most beautiful regions in the world. With gentle trade winds, an abundance of good anchorages, short distances between lush islands, and pristine waters, it’s also a sailor’s paradise.

Once at Norman Island, we moored in a pretty bay called The Bight, and put on our pirate crew shirts which bore the slogan “The beatings will continue until morale improves.” We then motored ashore in our dinghy where we discovered a beautiful sandy beach and a wonderful open-air bar known as Pirates’ Bight. After consuming copious amount of painkillers (dark rum, coconut cream, pineapple and orange juice) at the bar, walking on the beach, and playing Frisbee in the water, we returned to our boat for a delicious home-cooked supper of Spaghetti Bolognese.

By now it was 10:00 pm, so we decided to top off the evening with drinks and dancing aboard the William Thornton (aka Willie T’s), a floating bar that is permanently moored in the harbour.  The bar is notorious for wild behavior, which includes dirty dancing, jumping naked off the side of the ship, and being drunk enough to abscond with someone else’s dinghy – as we discovered when ours went missing at midnight. Fortunately, the guilty party returned it the next morning.

The Bight is also next door to a pair of great snorkeling spots – The Caves and The Indians – where there’s plenty of brightly coloured fish, coral reefs and occasionally sea turtles.

After visiting The Caves, we sailed over to nearby Peter Island where we dropped our hook in Great Harbour for a lunch stop, and then sailed up Sir Francis Drake Channel to Machioneel Bay on Cooper Island.  With winds running out of the northeast at between 15 to 20 knots, it was great sailing with our lee rail in the water and sea spray splashing up on the foredeck.

It rained most of the night, and by the next morning the winds were gusting up to 25 knots. So we put a double reef in our sail and laid in a northeasterly course for North Sound at the top of Virgin Gorda some 20 km away.

The second largest of the territory’s four main islands (the others being Tortola, Jost Van Dyke and Anegada), Virgin Gorda got its name from Columbus who thought the long island with a mountainous middle looked like a “fat virgin.” Today, the island is famous for its turquoise-hued bays, high-end resorts and sheltered waters which attract boaters from around the world.

Once in the tranquil waters of North Sound, we tied up to a mooring buoy and made our way ashore for a barbecue dinner under the stars at the Bitter End Yacht Club. After feasting on grilled fish, steak, chicken and ribs with friends from a catamaran called Annie’s Toy that we had met back on Norman Island, we made our way to the Bitter End Pub for cigars, rum, and some pool and darts with the locals.

We reluctantly left North Sound the next morning for an 18 km-sail in light winds along the stunning coast of Virgin Gorda and across Drake’s channel to popular Trellis Bay at Beef Island. Once moored, some of our crew (my daughter Samantha, her boyfriend John and my nephew Adam) took the ferry over to Marina Cay to catch the singing pirate show, while good friend Brian and I dinghied over to De Loose Mongoose for sunset cocktails on the pretty beach that surrounds most of Trellis Bay.

After cocktails, we picked up our crew at the ferry dock and dinghied over to The Last Resort Restaurant on nearby Bellamy Cay for dinner and entertainment. Founded by English entrepreneur and entertainer Tony Snell in 1972, The Last Resort has taken on legendary status over the decades as the place for good food and fun. And over the years that fun has included singing dogs, a braying donkey, and Tony performing a variety of his own hilarious songs about sailors.  

When Tony retired, he gave the place to his daughter Jessica and her husband Ben Branford to run. However, when in town Tony still makes the occasional appearance on stage before the zany Al Broderick takes over with his interactive show and tequila shooters. We were lucky enough to see both, and to get two of our crew on stage to share shooters with Al!

(This report on my sailing trip through the British Virgin Islands will continue in my next post.)

Carnival Cruises has introduced new security measures that give the line the right to confiscate a wide variety of electronic products and other items brought onboard its ships. Some of the items are strictly prohibited, while others can be confiscated during the cruise if deemed to be used in a manner that presents a security hazard.

So far the new rules have created a backlash from clients who say the measures are unclear and could lead to different standards being applied across the Carnival fleet. In fact, the line has already relented on one issue and removed the ban on 700-watt hair dryers.

According to the FAQ on Carnival’s web site, the new items that may be confiscated during the cruise include:

May be confiscated on board:

• Personal grooming devices such as hair dryers, flat and curling irons, shavers, etc., are allowed on board when used with proper caution.  These devices should not be used when other electrical appliances are plugged in.  However, if such devices are determined to pose a hazard, they will be removed and returned the last day of the cruise prior to debark.

• Electronics such as laptops, cameras, cellular phones, etc. are allowed on board when used with proper caution.

• Electrical devices such as fans, power strips, multi plug box outlets/adaptors, and extension cords will be removed if determined to pose a hazard and returned the last day of the cruise prior to debark.  

• Musical Instruments: Only if the guest is participating in a pre-approved ship performance. 

• Floatation Devices:  For the comfort of all our guests, rafts, tubes and floatation devices other than those used as life preservers (water wings) cannot be used in the swimming pools on board. 

These categories are in addition to a wide range of items that will be confiscated at check in including:

Confiscated Items at check-in:  

• Alcohol (hard liquor)/sealed, unopened bottles

• Beer/sealed, unopened bottles/cans

• Wine or champagne/sealed, unopened bottles - beyond the allowable limit of one bottle per adult 21 years of age (brought on at embarkation time only)

• Clothing irons and steamers (all Carnival ships offer laundry facilities with irons and ironing boards. Fleet-wide valet laundry service is also available for a nominal fee.)

• Electrical and household appliances (i.e. coffee makers, hot plates, toasters, etc.)

• Candles

• Heating Pads

• Incense

What’s next?

Once Carnival has finalized its list of banned, prohibited and may be confiscated items, rumors say they will being putting together a list of prohibited clothing items. We hope this list will include white shoes, burgundy pants and lime-colored sports jackets. And of course, Speedo bathing suits worn by anyone over 50 with a beer belly!

As for the cruise line’s marketing slogan “Fun for All, All for Fun”, apparently passengers will be required to submit a list of things they like to do at sea six weeks in advance of the cruise so it can be vetted by bureaucrats in the company’s head office. If the items are approved, passengers will be given a “fun” permit that gives them permission to participate in a limited number of pre-approved actitivities as long as they have the permit stapled to their forehead.

We can’t wait to see what Carnival comes up with next!

Located some 90 miles east of Puerto Rico, the 50 or so Caribbean islands, islets and cays that make up the British Virgin Islands (BVI) are so pristine and unspoiled that they are often referred to as “Nature’s Little Secrets.” In fact, the region is blessed with so many green hills, turquoise-hued bays and palm-fringed beaches that it’s rated one of the most beautiful and relaxing destinations in the world.

Christopher Columbus was the first European to discover this idyllic archipelago during his second voyage of discovery in 1493. The intrepid explorer was so impressed by the dozens of lush islands he saw on the horizon of the Caribbean that he named them “Las Once Mil Las Virgines” after the legendary St. Ursula and her 11,000 virgins.

Despite their appeal, Europeans didn’t settle the Virgin Islands until the Dutch arrived on Tortola in the mid -17^th century and built a stone fort on the shores of Road Town Harbour. The British annexed the archipelago in 1672 and eventually made it a protected territory, which it remains to this day.

Over the centuries, the sheltered bays, gentle trade winds and strategic location next to the Spanish trade routes made the Virgin Islands an ideal base for pirates and privateers. In fact, the islands’ main channel is named for English privateer Sir Francis Drake who sailed through the area in 1595 and mustered a fleet there to attack the Spanish. And the infamous pirate Blackbeard is believed to have buried his treasure in the caves of Norman Island – a legend that may have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write “Treasure Island.”

Today, there are several ways to explore the Virgin Islands including by cruise ship. However, while many ships call at the neighbouring island of St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands, only a handful stop in the BVI – usually at Tortola’s Road Town Harbour.

It’s a shame because while St. Thomas has great American-style shopping in the bustling duty-free port of Charlotte Amalie, the BVI offers a more relaxed and natural environment with a twist of British influence. The British islands also have some of the best beaches, diving, and open-air bars and restaurants in the Caribbean, including the legendary Foxy’s in Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke, and The Last Resort in Trellis Bay on Beef Island.

If you’re lucky enough to be on a ship that calls in the BVI, your choices for shore excursions will likely revolve around beaches, snorkeling, diving and sailing. Cane Garden Bay on the north shore of Tortola is the top choice for a day at the beach, while the Wreck of the Rhone off the coast of Salt Island is the best bet for diving. There are also some good snorkeling locations including the Indians near Pelican Island, the Caves at Norman Island, the Baths on Virgin Gorda, and Green Cay near Little Jost Van Dyke.

Since a single day in Tortola usually isn’t enough to fully appreciate the beauty of these magical islands, it’s worth considering a pre- or post-cruise land stay, especially if you’re sailing out of nearby St. Thomas or San Juan. There are a variety of charming hotels in the BVI to choose from, including the Sugar Mill on Tortola’s Apple Bay (rated one of the top 5 hotels in the Caribbean by Conde Nast Traveler magazine), the Fort Burt Hotel in Road Town (incorporating ruins from the original Dutch fortress), and the Bitter End Yacht Club in North Sound, Virgin Gorda (which offers a great sailing and diving program).

Of course, the best way to explore the BVI is by water, and there are a number of small ships that offer inter-island cruises of the region including some from Seabourn, Star Clipper and Windstar. These ships are small enough to anchor in some of the small but beautiful bays along the coasts of Jost Van Dyke, Norman Island, and Virgin Gorda that large ships never get to visit.

If you have some boating experience or are prepared to hire a local skipper, there’s also the option of chartering your own sail or power boat from one of the many charter companies in Tortola. That’s how I recently explored the BVI with friends and family, and I’ll be reporting on our adventures aboard the good ship “Hooligan’s Island” in my next post.

However, no matter how you get there or how or how long you stay, the British Virgin Islands are bound to make a lasting impression. After all, what else would you expect from a group of Caribbean islands beautiful enough to be called “Nature’s Little Secrets?”

While Greece, Spain, and Portugal struggle with huge government deficits, economic crises, and potential default on their debt, a befuddled commissioner in the European Union has come up with a plan.

Antonio “Goofy” Tajani, the European Union Commissioner of Industry and Entrepreneurship, has decided that travel is a human right and that taxpayers throughout the European Union should subsidize trips abroad for those too poor to afford their own vacations.

“Travelling for tourism today is a right,” Mr. Tajani declared at a gathering of European tourism officials in Madrid on April 15. “The way we spend our holidays is a formidable indicator of our quality of life.”

Mr. Tajani’s plan would have taxpayers fund 30% of the travel expenses for seniors, youth between the ages of 18 and 25, disabled people and families facing “difficult social, financial or personal” circumstances. Travel destinations would be selected by the European Union, and the goal would be to encourage recipients of the taxpayer funded largesse to visit other parts of Europe so they can develop a greater appreciation of other cultures.

A spokesman for Mr. Tajani explained it this way: “Why should someone from the Mediterranean not be able to travel to Edinburgh in summer for a breath of cool, fresh air? And why should someone from Edinburgh not be able to travel to Greece in winter?”

Quite frankly, we at Tripharbour think Mr. Tajani is on to something. In fact, we think his plan should include cruise vacations. After all, if travel is a human right, cruising should be, too (not to mention cars, jewelry, cottages in the Swiss Alps, and playing bingo). And when compared to a land-based vacation, cruising is usually a better value, particularly in Europe.

So to help Mr. Tajani implement his plan, which will be piloted before going into full operation in 2013, we’ve come up with three culturally enriching cruise experiences that he will want to include in his list of government-sanctioned trips as follows:

Freedom, Equality, & French Riviera: This cruise will take elderly people from Eastern Europe to the French Riviera so they can develop a better appreciation of topless bathing, outrageously expensive restaurants, and rude service. Once they return home, participants will be required to write a short essay on why the French are superior.

Learning to Lap Dance: This cruise will take Italians to Spitsbergen in Norway where they will learn how to yodel, cook barbecued Reindeer, and study Viking etiquette. Once home, participants will be required to demonstrate a traditional Lapland folk dance on the hit Euro-vision television show, “Dancing with the Bureaucrats.”

Keeping up Appearances: This cruise will take near-do well Brits to an English enclave in southern Spain where they can swill imported British ale, eat Cornish pasties with chips, watch Arsenal play football at the local pub, and sing God Save the Queen in the town square. Once home, they will produce a nine-part mini-series for the BBC starring Monty Python which will examine the many positive impacts that the British have had on the culture and cuisine of Spain.

I could go on, but I think you’re getting the picture of just how culturally important these taxpayer-funded vacations could be. So please write your local representative, and let them know that cruising should be a human right in North America, too!

One of the best times to find a great cruise deal is during the shoulder seasons – the two periods which begin and end a season of cruising in various parts of the world. For example, the months of May / September in Alaska; May / September / October in Bermuda; and April / May / October / November in Europe.

The shoulder season is not only a less expensive time for you to cruise, it’s usually less crowded, which means fewer people lining up at landmarks or joining the most popular shore excursions. And while the weather can be cooler during the shoulder season, it can actually be an advantage if you don’t like being outdoors for a long period of time in high temperatures and humidity.

For couples who don’t want to sail with a boatload of kids, shoulder seasons have another advantage:  they usually take place before and after summer vacation, which means most kids are in school.

So just how much money can you save by cruising during the shoulder season? Let’s take a quick look at three examples in Alaska, the Mediterranean and Bermuda during the 2010 season:

Save $380 per person for a week in Alaska:

A 7-night cruise aboard the Diamond Princess departing May 29 from Whittier, Alaska to Vancouver, British Columbia sails to Yakutat Bay, Glacier Bay, Skagway, Juneau, and Ketchikan. The starting cruise fare for this shoulder season departure is C$493 per person. But prices for the same cruise departing July 10 during high season start at C$873 – a full $380 per person more. With the savings, you could afford to spend a few extra days in Whittier exploring some of the interior of Alaska on a cruise tour.

Save $434 per person for a week in the Mediterranean:

The Celebrity Constellation departs Barcelona October 16 for a 7-night cruise to Nice, Genoa, Florence, Rome and Naples with cruise fares starting at C$719 or less than C$103 per diem. A similar cruise on sister ship Celebrity Century during the peak season in July has prices starting at $165 per day – a full $62 per person more each day. Take the shoulder season cruise and use the savings to pay for a few days on land in beautiful Barcelona.

Save $360 per person for 5-nights in Bermuda:

Royal Caribbean’s Explorer of the Seas departs Cape Liberty, New Jersey on September 11 for a 5-night cruise to the pink-hued beaches of Bermuda with shoulder season fares starting at just C$499 per person. Fares for the same cruise departing during high season on July 31 start at C$859 – or a full C$360 more per person.  Why not finish the summer with a shoulder season cruise to Mark Twain’s favorite island paradise of Bermuda? With the savings, you’ll have lots of money left for duty-free shopping in the island’s capital of Hamilton!

As you can see, there can be a big difference in cruise fares depending upon the time of year and season you choose to cruise. So if your calendar and family are flexible, why not save a ton of money by sailing during the shoulder season.

With air travel to and from most parts of Europe grounded for the past week by a cloud of volcanic ash from Iceland, thousands of stranded passengers have been wondering how they’ll get home. And in somewhat of a “Back to the Future” twist, some are discovering that a leisurely cruise across the Atlantic may once again be “the only way to cross.”

Of course, crossing the pond by boat was the only way to travel between Europe and North America for hundreds of years until commercial plane travel arrived in the 1940s. In addition, travel by cruise ship had been growing in popularity since 1867 when Mark Twain chronicled his six month-adventure at sea in his wonderful book Innocents Abroad.

Despite the romantic image of sailing, facilities aboard passenger ships were pretty rudimentary until the early 20th century. However, with the growing need to transport immigrants to America and advancements in technology, shipyards were able to build bigger and better vessels that minimized the discomfort of an ocean voyage and provided more public space.

Not long after, cruise lines began to attract more wealthy tourists and businessmen by offering better accommodations, more elegant dining, and onboard activities at sea. As a result, passenger service grew dramatically and shipping companies from England, Germany, France, Holland, Italy and Sweden began to build better and grander ships to compete for this growing business. In fact, by the mid 1950s Cunard Line alone was operating up to 12 ships year-round on the trans-Atlantic route. 

However, when jet travel was introduced in 1958, it wasn’t long before passengers abandoned ships in favour of a much faster crossing by plane (eight hours versus five days). This situation led to the collapse of cruising as a means of transportation from point to point, and eventually its reinvention as a form of floating vacation to exotic destinations. 

Of course, that was before the cloud of volcanic ash arrived over Europe last Wednesday and began to shut down most of the continent’s airports. As a result, some stranded passengers looking for a way back home have rediscovered that cruise ships still cross the Atlantic, albeit in much smaller numbers than they once did during the Golden Age of Cruising.

For example, Cunard still offers regularly scheduled crossings, with weekly sailings between New York and Southampton on the Queen Mary 2 each week from April through November. And most major lines offer trans-Atlantic cruises each spring and fall as they reposition ships between European and American markets.

These trans-Atlantic cruises, which are sometimes difficult to sell, are suddenly filling up at with travelers seeking a reliable way home. In fact, the Queen Mary 2 sailing from Southampton to New York departing April 22 is already oversold with a waiting list of more than 500 people. And similar crossings from Florida with other cruise lines are also filling up quickly.

But while news of fully booked ships crossing the Atlantic may seem like we’ve gone back to the future, no one is expecting it to continue once air travel returns to normal. However, some of these reluctant cruisers may soon discover that in this age of long security lines at airports, unreliable schedules, and extra fees for checked luggage, a leisurely voyage across the Atlantic may still be the only way to cross.

Most people wouldn’t include cruise ships in their search for a top-rated spa resort. After all, how could a cruise ship compete with a land-based resort that has several acres of spa facilities and a wide range of services?  

But according to a recent survey of spa users, cruise ships not only have excellent facilities and services, some rank among the very best spas in the world. Not only that, they usually charge less than hotels and resorts do for comparable treatments.

These and other interesting results can be found in the 20^th annual spa survey in the April edition of Conde Nast Traveler magazine. The spa survey is part of the magazine’s Annual Readers’ Choice Survey, which polled more than 25,000 readers.

The survey asked readers to rate their favorite spas on three criteria – facilities, staff, and treatments – which were then averaged to create an overall score. The magazine also included the price of a basic massage as a guide for price comparisons.

According to the survey, only 240 spas from around the world scored enough points to make the list of top-rated spas. Of those, 24 can be found at sea including upon ships belonging to a wide range of cruise lines including Royal Caribbean, Regent, Crystal, Silversea and Cunard.

More importantly, only seven spas earned 97 points or higher out of a total score of 100. Of those seven, five are land-based spas while the other two can be found on cruise ships.

The top-rated cruise ship spas are located on Royal Caribbean’s Liberty of the Seas and Regent’s Seven Seas Voyager. The spa aboard the Liberty of the Seas scored a total of 97.5 points, with 96.3 points for treatments, 96.3 for staff, and 100 for facilities. The Seven Seas Voyager earned a total of 97.3 points with 96.7 points for treatments, 98.4 for staff, and 96.7 for facilities.

Cruise ships not only fared well in terms of their overall rankings, they also beat out most land-based hotels and resorts when it came to competitive pricing for spa services. For example, a basic massage at the top hotel spa in the United States costs $144, while the same treatment at the highest rated resort in the Caribbean sells for $190. In contrast, a basic massage costs $101 aboard the Liberty of the Seas, and $142 on the Seven Seas Voyager.

In summary, what the Conde Nast survey shows is that cruise ships have come a long way over the past 20 years in terms of their range and quality of spa treatments, facilities and staff.  Long gone are the days when cruise ships had nothing more to offer than a small sauna and a massage room. Today, cruise ships have thousands of square feet of spa facilities that can compete with almost anything offered at a land-based resort.

So the next time you decide to take a spa vacation, don’t forget that some of the best rated spas in the world can be found at sea. It might just save you a ton of money.

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